Ever since I rebuilt the Kyosho Lazer ZX that I acquired in 1993 (click here to see the start of the restoration that began in 2011), it became more of a shelf queen than runner mostly because of the time and effort I spent on the body.
It took a fair amount of effort to trim, mask, paint and decal the body and I don't really enjoy the process.
I wanted to get a second Lazer ZX to have as a runner in order to feel less guilty if I ever flipped or crashed it, but I did not want to have to paint another body. Luckily a few years ago I found an eBay seller who was selling pre-painted bodies for various RC cars and one of them was the Lazer ZX body in stock colors. It looked nice enough, certainly good enough for a runner vehicle, so I bought the body and stored it for a while while periodically looking for a used Lazer ZX chassis to pair with it.
I wasn't looking very hard, really just waiting to see if something came along that looked interesting every once in a while, and then one night a couple years ago I ended up finding a really nice looking chassis.
Honestly, it looked pretty nice and clean. I
bought it, stripped it down and cleaned all of the parts (which didn't
need much cleaning), and then built it according to the manual. It was obvious that it was either hardly run or was someone's "built-it-from-parts" project because everything was in very good to excellent condition and few missing parts. The tires were rather hard, but I didn't care about that. I fitted the body that I had bought previously, trimming the area around the gear cover, front shocks and drilled holes for the body mounts and antenna. Lastly, I trimmed and fitted the wing to the rear wing mount.
For this chassis, I used a used Kyosho Le Mans 240SB that I had on hand mated to a Robinson Racing 23T 0.6M pinion and the stock LA-2 spur gear. Power comes from a 6-cell NiMH pack connected to a Tamiya TEU-105BK ESC. The receiver is a Futaba R113ip 75Mhz which is controlled by one of my Futaba 3UCP radios. For steering, I used a Futaba S148 servo which is about as basic as it gets. I don't race so the driving and steering requirements are not too steep.
The only hop-ups on this chassis are the LAW-1 FRP front and rear shock towers to replace the stock aluminum ones plus the Pro Line Hole Shot tires and JC Racing wheels.
After a few runs with the Kyosho 240SB motor, however, I'm not too impressed with the power or speed. My original Lazer ZX with the Kyosho Mega 16x2 is much, much more powerful and faster using the same battery, and it's using a 18T pinion on the stock spur vs 23T pinion on the 240SB with same spur. I think I'm going to swap out the 240SB for something else. The specs list it as a 19T motor using double 0.65mm wire wound on the rotor. It was used and has been messed with by the previous owner, so it might not be working as well as it should because it certainly doesn't feel like a 30,000 rpm motor to me. Even going downhill wide open it's much slower than the 16x2-powered Lazer ZX.
Fast forward to earlier this year and I somehow ended up buying yet another Lazer ZX chassis to restore and run.
This chassis was not nearly in as good condition as the last one.
The front right shock was an Associated shock, not a Kyosho Gold.
The rear shock springs were not for Kyosho Golds and were not the correct diameter to fit the spring holders.
The steering servo mounts were missing.
The front tires were totally cracked and destroyed. (no big deal)
The motor mounting screws were 4-40 instead of M3 thread. (ugh)
The motor (Kinwald stock I think) front bronze bushing was totally worn out. The rotor rattled side-to-side in the bushing. Endbell is not removable without bending the tabs on the can.
One of the biggest issues I noticed was that the motor pinion was 48P while the Lazer ZX spur is 0.6M. Totally different gear pitches that are definitely NOT swappable or even close to being the same pitch. I really hoped that the previous owner had just mounted the motor to the chassis just before selling to make it look "complete". Thankfully the spur teeth did not look like someone attempted to run the car with that pinion. The spur had some wear, but overall looked good enough to keep using.
While rebuilding the chassis, I noticed that 2 of the internal belt rollers were missing, so I had to get a new LA-10 pack to replace the missing parts. The belts themselves were in excellent condition, so I simply cleaned them with a dry paper towel to remove dirt build-up and used them as-is. The pulleys were also in perfect condition.
Most of the rest of the parts were in very good condition once they were thoroughly cleaned. I found a single Kyosho Gold front shock on eBay (amazing luck) and rebuilt all 4 shocks with new shafts, o-rings and fresh oil.
I have ordered a Lazer ZX body, wing and gear cover from Team Bluegroove in Canada plus some Tamiya PS-15 metallic red and PS-1 white spray paint, so I guess I'll be trimming, masking and painting another Lazer ZX body in a few weeks.
Here is how the 3rd Lazer ZX looks now as it sits waiting for a body and wing:
For this third Lazer ZX, I used a Kyosho Le Mans Sports H-240S motor with a Kyosho 20T 0.6M pinion hooked to a Tamiya TEU-105BK ESC. The receiver is once again the Futaba R113ip 75MHz controlled by a Futaba 3UCP transmitter and steering is a Futaba S148.
I really like the vintage Kyosho 0.6M pinions because they are wider than the modern Robinson Racing 0.6M pinions, so they make contact with the entire width of the LA-2 spur gear teeth.
Finally, here are all three of my Lazer ZX cars side by side.
All three are great runners and very quiet due to the belt drive. The only gears are the motor pinion and spur (not counting the gear diffs). The rear axle is driven by a short belt instead of gears.
I know most people prefer the Lazer ZXR, which is a refined/racing version of the Lazer ZX 4WD design, but I still rather like the ZX-style chassis due to the enclosed belts that keep out dirt. I know people say that the belt covers prevent any dirt that gets inside from ever leaving and that's true, but with the easy-going on-road driving and mininal off-roading that I do, dirt is not a concern.
Parts are becoming harder and harder to find these days, so restoring one of these chassis is something that will take more time and money than it used to. There are some alternatives, however, now that 3D printing is more popular than ever. For example, Shapeways has many parts for Kyosho vehicles, including the Lazer ZX, which can be used if finding the original part is too difficult.
Saturday, June 20, 2020
Sunday, September 9, 2018
Kyosho Rocky Shock Rebuild Using Modern Parts
The Kyosho Rocky shocks are unique in the world of Kyosho, so finding replacement parts such as the shock shafts is impossible. In order to continue to use the original stock cylinder and keep the vintage look, I came up with a way to rebuild the shocks using modern internal pistons and shafts.
First, here is a look at the very unique shaft and piston design from the original Rocky:
From the above picture the shock looks almost normal. It has a black piston and an e-clip to hold the piston at the top of the shaft. But there is a spring under the piston between it and the e-clip. What does that do? Let's look at the parts individually to find out.
The shock shaft has a small piston head built in.
The piston is hollow with very thin sides that contain notches. The holes around the center shaft hole allow the shock oil to flow through but they are partially blocked by the head of the shock shaft when the piston is pushed against it by the spring at rest.
The spring.
How it works: The spring holds the black piston against the head of the shaft when the shock is at rest. When the shaft is pushed into the cylinder, like when the car hits a bump, the force pushes the shaft into the shock cylinder. The black piston, which is the same diameter as the inner cylinder wall of the shock, wants to stay in place due to the oil in front of it, so it pushes against the spring, compressing it. This action allows oil to flow past the shaft piston head (which is smaller in diameter than the black piston) and flow through the black piston holes to the other side. This allows the black piston to move forward further into the cylinder providing the damping action needed by the car to absorb bumps.
It is fairly complicated by today's standards but very cool.
Unfortunately these unique shock shafts are impossible to find, so when the original shafts wear out from use or are damaged there is no way to fix the shock while keeping the original piston design. The simple solution is to find a modern replacement shock with the same specifications (length, diameter), but I wanted to find a way to use the original shock cylinders, springs and external hardware while swapping the piston and shaft for something modern in order to keep maintenance easy while keeping the original look.
Here is what I came up with. The design is based around the re-released Kyosho Optima shocks.
I used the following parts:
Kyosho OT239 Front Shock Shaft (2pcs/OPTIMA). Two packs are required to rebuild three Rocky shocks.
Kyosho OT209 Shock Piston (OPTIMA). Two packs are required to rebuild three Rocky shocks.
Kyosho W5181-03 Shock Pistons. Only the small washers will be used from this pack. There are 8 washers, enough to rebuild 8 Rocky shocks.
Kyosho ORG03BK (Black/10Pcs). This pack has enough o-rings to rebuild 10 Rocky shocks.
Team Durango TD310671 O-Ring 9*1mm (10pcs). This pack has enough o-rings to rebuild 10 Rocky shocks.
Alternatively, Kyosho W5181-04 Shock Seal O-Ring (S) can be used, but this part is getting harder to find, is more expensive, and only comes 4 to a pack.
The original Rocky shock parts that will be used are:
The cylinder, spring, end cap, retaining washer, spring retainers and screw.
How to build the shock assembly:
Step 1: Install a small white washer from W5181-03 into the end cap.
Step 2: Install a 3mm o-ring from ORG03BK.
Step 3: Install an end cap seal o-ring from TD310671 (or W5181-04).
Step 4: Assemble the shock shaft and piston assembly using OT239 and OT209 and the supplied e-clips. There are three piston styles (A, B, C) to choose from in the OT209 pack. I used style C, but you can use whatever piston you want.
The small spacer in OT209 is used to limit the maximum extension travel of the shaft to match the original stock Rocky shocks. In the following picture the spacer is slid up to the piston.
Step 5: Install piston shaft assembly into the Rocky cylinder and fill the cylinder with silicone shock oil up to where the end cap threads start. Remove all air bubbles by tapping on the cylinder and moving the shaft up and down.
Step 6: Install the aluminum retaining washer into the cylinder, making sure it seats uniformly on the inside lip of the cylinder wall. This washer prevents the o-ring from popping out of the end cap.
Step 7: Put a drop of silicone oil on the inner o-ring in the end cap to help prevent damage to the o-ring when pushing the threaded shock shaft through the end cap. Screw the end cap in to the shock cylinder. Make sure the retaining washer remains seated properly while this is done. Also, test and make sure the shock shaft can be fully pushed in to the cylinder and fully extended. If the shock shaft is hydro-locked when pushing it in, loosen the end cap to allow some oil to come out and then tighten and re-try. Since there is no bladder and the shock volume is small it is difficult to have a perfect smooth feel to the shock movement and some air will likely be present, but with some trial and error it should be possible to have a good feeling shock with minimal air inside.
Step 8: Install the external hardware (spring retainer w/screw, ball end, etc.) and you now have a finished shock.
Here is one of my Rockys with the shocks installed:
There may be cheaper solutions for replacing Rocky shocks, but in order to keep the vintage look I think the extra cost is worth it.
If you have found another way to restore or rebuild your Rocky shocks, I would love to hear about it in the comments below.
First, here is a look at the very unique shaft and piston design from the original Rocky:
From the above picture the shock looks almost normal. It has a black piston and an e-clip to hold the piston at the top of the shaft. But there is a spring under the piston between it and the e-clip. What does that do? Let's look at the parts individually to find out.
The shock shaft has a small piston head built in.
The piston is hollow with very thin sides that contain notches. The holes around the center shaft hole allow the shock oil to flow through but they are partially blocked by the head of the shock shaft when the piston is pushed against it by the spring at rest.
The spring.
How it works: The spring holds the black piston against the head of the shaft when the shock is at rest. When the shaft is pushed into the cylinder, like when the car hits a bump, the force pushes the shaft into the shock cylinder. The black piston, which is the same diameter as the inner cylinder wall of the shock, wants to stay in place due to the oil in front of it, so it pushes against the spring, compressing it. This action allows oil to flow past the shaft piston head (which is smaller in diameter than the black piston) and flow through the black piston holes to the other side. This allows the black piston to move forward further into the cylinder providing the damping action needed by the car to absorb bumps.
It is fairly complicated by today's standards but very cool.
Unfortunately these unique shock shafts are impossible to find, so when the original shafts wear out from use or are damaged there is no way to fix the shock while keeping the original piston design. The simple solution is to find a modern replacement shock with the same specifications (length, diameter), but I wanted to find a way to use the original shock cylinders, springs and external hardware while swapping the piston and shaft for something modern in order to keep maintenance easy while keeping the original look.
Here is what I came up with. The design is based around the re-released Kyosho Optima shocks.
I used the following parts:
Kyosho OT239 Front Shock Shaft (2pcs/OPTIMA). Two packs are required to rebuild three Rocky shocks.
Kyosho OT209 Shock Piston (OPTIMA). Two packs are required to rebuild three Rocky shocks.
Kyosho W5181-03 Shock Pistons. Only the small washers will be used from this pack. There are 8 washers, enough to rebuild 8 Rocky shocks.
Kyosho ORG03BK (Black/10Pcs). This pack has enough o-rings to rebuild 10 Rocky shocks.
Team Durango TD310671 O-Ring 9*1mm (10pcs). This pack has enough o-rings to rebuild 10 Rocky shocks.
Alternatively, Kyosho W5181-04 Shock Seal O-Ring (S) can be used, but this part is getting harder to find, is more expensive, and only comes 4 to a pack.
The original Rocky shock parts that will be used are:
The cylinder, spring, end cap, retaining washer, spring retainers and screw.
How to build the shock assembly:
Step 1: Install a small white washer from W5181-03 into the end cap.
Step 2: Install a 3mm o-ring from ORG03BK.
Step 3: Install an end cap seal o-ring from TD310671 (or W5181-04).
Step 4: Assemble the shock shaft and piston assembly using OT239 and OT209 and the supplied e-clips. There are three piston styles (A, B, C) to choose from in the OT209 pack. I used style C, but you can use whatever piston you want.
The small spacer in OT209 is used to limit the maximum extension travel of the shaft to match the original stock Rocky shocks. In the following picture the spacer is slid up to the piston.
Step 5: Install piston shaft assembly into the Rocky cylinder and fill the cylinder with silicone shock oil up to where the end cap threads start. Remove all air bubbles by tapping on the cylinder and moving the shaft up and down.
Step 6: Install the aluminum retaining washer into the cylinder, making sure it seats uniformly on the inside lip of the cylinder wall. This washer prevents the o-ring from popping out of the end cap.
Step 7: Put a drop of silicone oil on the inner o-ring in the end cap to help prevent damage to the o-ring when pushing the threaded shock shaft through the end cap. Screw the end cap in to the shock cylinder. Make sure the retaining washer remains seated properly while this is done. Also, test and make sure the shock shaft can be fully pushed in to the cylinder and fully extended. If the shock shaft is hydro-locked when pushing it in, loosen the end cap to allow some oil to come out and then tighten and re-try. Since there is no bladder and the shock volume is small it is difficult to have a perfect smooth feel to the shock movement and some air will likely be present, but with some trial and error it should be possible to have a good feeling shock with minimal air inside.
Step 8: Install the external hardware (spring retainer w/screw, ball end, etc.) and you now have a finished shock.
Here is one of my Rockys with the shocks installed:
There may be cheaper solutions for replacing Rocky shocks, but in order to keep the vintage look I think the extra cost is worth it.
If you have found another way to restore or rebuild your Rocky shocks, I would love to hear about it in the comments below.
Wednesday, February 14, 2018
Moore's Ideal Products Hotshot Ball Differential Production Goal Reached!
From the MIP email newsletter:
MIP Starter Goal Reached!
#17160 & #17165 Super Ball Diff Tamiya Hotshot/BigWig
As of this month, we have officially reached our project order goal for the #1760 & #17165 MIP Super Ball Diff, Tamiya HotShot/ BigWig! Thank you to everyone who supported the project!
So what can you expect now?
Production has Started!
We have begun to manufacturer the #17160 (Pair), #17165 (Single Diff) and all other corresponding support parts.
Shipping Date Coming!
If you have already pre-ordered your ball diff, expect your order to ship by next month. Official ship date will be announced soon!Price Increase Coming!
If you haven't had a chance to order your ball diff yet at this special MIP starter introductory price, order soon because a price increase is coming!
No information regarding what the price increase will be, however.
Product links:
Disclaimer:
I do not work for MIP and am not affiliated with them in any way. This
posting is to simply get the message out about this product to other
Tamiya Hotshot, Super Hotshot and Bigwig owners.
Tuesday, January 30, 2018
Moore's Idea Products Hotshot Ball Differential Single Unit Pre-order
Moore's Ideal Products (MIP) is now offering pre-orders of the Hotshot ball differential in single units in addition to the dual unit offering.
This ball differential can be installed in either the front or rear gearcase of the Tamiya Hotshot, Super Hotshot or Bigwig.
Link to product page: http://www.miponline.com/store/mip17165.html
Below text taken from MIP web site:
Please note that this is a pre-order product. MIP must receive a minimum of 250 pre-orders by February 16 before production on the product is started. If the Pre-order goal is met, products will begin shipping out March 1st. If the minimum amount of orders is not met by February 16, then the product will not be manufactured and we will refund the full amount back to your account.
#17165 MIP Super Ball Diff, Tamiya HotShot/ BigWig
MSRP: $55.00
MAP: Web Only, Dealer & Distributors please contact sales@miponline.com for ordering information
UPC: 691545171609
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:
TARGET CUSTOMERS:
Hot Shot, Super HotShot, & BigWig (2017)
COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGES:
Kit comes with parts to upgrade either rear or front axle
Rebuild-able
Adjustable Traction
Increased Acceleration
Less Wear and Tear
Increase in Speed in Turns
COMPATIBILITY:
All Hotshots (remakes #58391, #84265) , Super Hotshot(#58517) & Bigwig (#47330)(2017)
Disclaimer: I do not work for MIP and am not affiliated with them in any way. This posting is to simply get the message out about this product to other Tamiya Hotshot, Super Hotshot and Bigwig owners.
This ball differential can be installed in either the front or rear gearcase of the Tamiya Hotshot, Super Hotshot or Bigwig.
Link to product page: http://www.miponline.com/store/mip17165.html
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MIP Hotshot Ball Diff. Image Copyright (C) Moore's Ideal Products |
Below text taken from MIP web site:
Please note that this is a pre-order product. MIP must receive a minimum of 250 pre-orders by February 16 before production on the product is started. If the Pre-order goal is met, products will begin shipping out March 1st. If the minimum amount of orders is not met by February 16, then the product will not be manufactured and we will refund the full amount back to your account.
#17165 MIP Super Ball Diff, Tamiya HotShot/ BigWig
MSRP: $55.00
MAP: Web Only, Dealer & Distributors please contact sales@miponline.com for ordering information
UPC: 691545171609
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:
Now Sold Individually!
Upgrade your front or
rear axle and bring your HotShot into the 21st Century without losing
that old-school 1980’s feel with the MIP Super Ball Diff for the Hotshot
and Bigwig! The kit includes a 2-piece, Steel outdrive, Ball Diff w/
MIP Thrust assembly and Diff Balls. Our Ball Diff is unique because ours
is rebuild-able. No other Ball Diff is capable of that! Our Ball Diff
is also adjustable and increases acceleration of your car and increases
speed in turns! Slight modification will be needed on the gear case of
your car in order to get the part to fit. Not to worry though! We
include the hole saw necessary to make the hole in the case.TARGET CUSTOMERS:
Hot Shot, Super HotShot, & BigWig (2017)
COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGES:
Kit comes with parts to upgrade either rear or front axle
Rebuild-able
Adjustable Traction
Increased Acceleration
Less Wear and Tear
Increase in Speed in Turns
COMPATIBILITY:
All Hotshots (remakes #58391, #84265) , Super Hotshot(#58517) & Bigwig (#47330)(2017)
Disclaimer: I do not work for MIP and am not affiliated with them in any way. This posting is to simply get the message out about this product to other Tamiya Hotshot, Super Hotshot and Bigwig owners.
Wednesday, January 3, 2018
Moore's Ideal Products Tamiya Hotshot Ball Differential Pre-Order is LIVE
Moore's Ideal Products (MIP) has begun the pre-order of the Tamiya Hotshot, Super Hotshot and Bigwig Super Ball Differential.
Link to product page: www.miponline.com/store/mip17160.html
Below text taken from MIP web site (with some corrections to the Support Products section by me):
Please note that this is a pre-order product. MIP must receive a minimum of 250 pre-orders by January 26 before production on the product is started. If the Pre-order goal is met, products will begin shipping out February 16. If the minimum amount of orders is not met by January 26, then the product will not be manufactured and we will refund the full amount back to your account.
#17160 MIP Super Ball Diff, Tamiya HotShot/ BigWig
MSRP: $115.00
MAP: Web Only, Dealer & Distributors please contact sales@miponline.com for ordering information
UPC: 691545171609
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:
Upgrade both your front and rear axle with ease and bring your HotShot into the 21st Century without losing that old-school 1980’s feel with the MIP Super Ball Diff for the Hotshot and Bigwig! The kit includes a 2-piece, Steel outdrive, Ball Diff w/ MIP Thrust assembly and Diff Balls. Our Ball Diff is unique because ours is rebuild-able. No other Ball Diff is capable of that! Our Ball Diff is also adjustable and increases acceleration of your car and increases speed in turns! Slight modification will be needed on the gear case of your car in order to get the part to fit. Not to worry though! We include the hole saw necessary to make the hole in the case.
TARGET CUSTOMERS:
Hot Shot, Super HotShot, & BigWig (2017)
COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGES:
Kit comes with parts to upgrade both rear and front axle
Rebuild-able
Adjustable Traction
Increased Acceleration
Less Wear and Tear
Increase in Speed in Turns
INCLUDES:
2 - MIP Confetti Stickers
1 - MIP Inst. Sheet
1 - MIP Thread Gel Safety Sheet
1 - MIP Lube & Thread Cup
14 - Bearing, 3/32" Chrome Steel Balls
6 - Bearing, 5/64" Chrome Steel Balls
2 - Bearing, 10 x 15 x 4mm, Flanged
2 - Bearing, 10 x 15 x 4mm, Flanged
2 - Diff Ring, Slash
1 - Diff Spring, 1/4 x 9/32"
1 - Diff Screw, Shoulder, 2-56 x .925, Assoc
2 - Bearing, 5mm x 8mm x 2.5mm
1 - MIP T-Nut Housing, .250 Bore
1 - MIP T-Nut Insert, .250 Bore
2 - MIP Outdrive Male Tamiya HotShot
2 - MIP Outdrive Female, Tamiya HotShot
2 - MIP Diff Gear, 47T 32P, Tamiya HotShot
1 - MIP Hole Saw, Tamiya Hot Shot
4 - MIP Bone, Tamiya Hot Shot
COMPATIBILITY:
All Hotshots (remakes #58391, #84265) , Super Hotshot(#58517) & Bigwig (#47330)(2017)
SUPPORT PRODUCTS:
#16215 - MIP Super Ball Rebuild Kit, Tamiya Blackfoot/ Monster Beetle MSRP: $15.00 UPC:691545162157
#17161 - Super Ball Diff Outdrives MSRP: $32.00 UPC:691545162157
#17162 - Super Ball Diff 47T Diff Gear MSRP: $12.00 UPC:691545162157
#99061 - HW-BEARING/ 5 x 8 x 2.5mm (2) MSRP: $5.00 UPC: 691545990613
#99108 - HW-BEARING/ 5 x 8 x 2.5mm (2) MSRP: $5.00 UPC:691545990613
#99110 - HW-Bearing, 10mmx15mmx4mm Flanged (2) MSRP: $7.50 UPC:691545991108
I do not know if this differential will fit other Tamiya models, such as the Boomerang (vintage or re-re), Hotshot II (vintage), or Super Sabre (vintage).
Disclaimer: I do not work for MIP and am not affiliated with them in any way. This posting is to simply get the message out about this product to other Tamiya Hotshot, Super Hotshot and Bigwig owners.
Link to product page: www.miponline.com/store/mip17160.html
Below text taken from MIP web site (with some corrections to the Support Products section by me):
Please note that this is a pre-order product. MIP must receive a minimum of 250 pre-orders by January 26 before production on the product is started. If the Pre-order goal is met, products will begin shipping out February 16. If the minimum amount of orders is not met by January 26, then the product will not be manufactured and we will refund the full amount back to your account.
#17160 MIP Super Ball Diff, Tamiya HotShot/ BigWig
MSRP: $115.00
MAP: Web Only, Dealer & Distributors please contact sales@miponline.com for ordering information
UPC: 691545171609
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:
Upgrade both your front and rear axle with ease and bring your HotShot into the 21st Century without losing that old-school 1980’s feel with the MIP Super Ball Diff for the Hotshot and Bigwig! The kit includes a 2-piece, Steel outdrive, Ball Diff w/ MIP Thrust assembly and Diff Balls. Our Ball Diff is unique because ours is rebuild-able. No other Ball Diff is capable of that! Our Ball Diff is also adjustable and increases acceleration of your car and increases speed in turns! Slight modification will be needed on the gear case of your car in order to get the part to fit. Not to worry though! We include the hole saw necessary to make the hole in the case.
TARGET CUSTOMERS:
Hot Shot, Super HotShot, & BigWig (2017)
COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGES:
Kit comes with parts to upgrade both rear and front axle
Rebuild-able
Adjustable Traction
Increased Acceleration
Less Wear and Tear
Increase in Speed in Turns
INCLUDES:
2 - MIP Confetti Stickers
1 - MIP Inst. Sheet
1 - MIP Thread Gel Safety Sheet
1 - MIP Lube & Thread Cup
14 - Bearing, 3/32" Chrome Steel Balls
6 - Bearing, 5/64" Chrome Steel Balls
2 - Bearing, 10 x 15 x 4mm, Flanged
2 - Bearing, 10 x 15 x 4mm, Flanged
2 - Diff Ring, Slash
1 - Diff Spring, 1/4 x 9/32"
1 - Diff Screw, Shoulder, 2-56 x .925, Assoc
2 - Bearing, 5mm x 8mm x 2.5mm
1 - MIP T-Nut Housing, .250 Bore
1 - MIP T-Nut Insert, .250 Bore
2 - MIP Outdrive Male Tamiya HotShot
2 - MIP Outdrive Female, Tamiya HotShot
2 - MIP Diff Gear, 47T 32P, Tamiya HotShot
1 - MIP Hole Saw, Tamiya Hot Shot
4 - MIP Bone, Tamiya Hot Shot
COMPATIBILITY:
All Hotshots (remakes #58391, #84265) , Super Hotshot(#58517) & Bigwig (#47330)(2017)
SUPPORT PRODUCTS:
#16215 - MIP Super Ball Rebuild Kit, Tamiya Blackfoot/ Monster Beetle MSRP: $15.00 UPC:691545162157
#17161 - Super Ball Diff Outdrives MSRP: $32.00 UPC:691545162157
#17162 - Super Ball Diff 47T Diff Gear MSRP: $12.00 UPC:691545162157
#99061 - HW-BEARING/ 5 x 8 x 2.5mm (2) MSRP: $5.00 UPC: 691545990613
#99108 - HW-BEARING/ 5 x 8 x 2.5mm (2) MSRP: $5.00 UPC:691545990613
#99110 - HW-Bearing, 10mmx15mmx4mm Flanged (2) MSRP: $7.50 UPC:691545991108
I do not know if this differential will fit other Tamiya models, such as the Boomerang (vintage or re-re), Hotshot II (vintage), or Super Sabre (vintage).
Disclaimer: I do not work for MIP and am not affiliated with them in any way. This posting is to simply get the message out about this product to other Tamiya Hotshot, Super Hotshot and Bigwig owners.
Labels:
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Monday, December 11, 2017
Moore's Ideal Products Tamiya Hotshot Ball Differential Pre-Order Announcement
Moore's Ideal Products (MIP) is planning to offer a ball differential set for the Tamiya Hotshot family of models very soon (later this December, 2017).
Similar to last year when MIP offered the ORV chassis ball differential as a special test-the-waters pre-order, this Hotshot ball diff pre-order will need to sell a minimum of 250 units before it will be approved for production by MIP. If they do not receive enough pre-orders, the project will be cancelled and future Tamiya products from MIP may be in jeopardy.
Last year the ORV ball differential pre-order was successful and the hope is that this pre-order will follow in the same footsteps.
Once again it is Alberto (Pintopower on TamiyaClub and TamiyaBase forums) who is leading the effort to get MIP to make these products.
Here is a link to his post on TamiyaBase regarding this pre-order: https://tamiyabase.com/forum/16-anything-else/19333-mip-prepared-to-build-ball-diff-for-hotshot-family
For convenience, here is a direct copy-and-paste from Alberto's first post in the thread on TamiyaBase linked above:
As of this post, pre-order pricing does not appear to be known yet, so I would recommend checking the TamiyaBase forum thread regularly for more information as it becomes available. I will try to check for updates and post them, but I could miss important, timely information due to the holidays.
Similar to last year when MIP offered the ORV chassis ball differential as a special test-the-waters pre-order, this Hotshot ball diff pre-order will need to sell a minimum of 250 units before it will be approved for production by MIP. If they do not receive enough pre-orders, the project will be cancelled and future Tamiya products from MIP may be in jeopardy.
Last year the ORV ball differential pre-order was successful and the hope is that this pre-order will follow in the same footsteps.
Once again it is Alberto (Pintopower on TamiyaClub and TamiyaBase forums) who is leading the effort to get MIP to make these products.
Here is a link to his post on TamiyaBase regarding this pre-order: https://tamiyabase.com/forum/16-anything-else/19333-mip-prepared-to-build-ball-diff-for-hotshot-family
For convenience, here is a direct copy-and-paste from Alberto's first post in the thread on TamiyaBase linked above:
I wanted to let all the Hotshot owners in on the MIP ball diff update. MIP has the design completed for the Hotshot Ball diff! Here is where we are tentatively.
1. This will be moving forward with the presales campaign just like the ORV unit did.
2. The presales campaign will be discounted and include BOTH diffs for the Hotshot
3. The trans case will need a modification to work due to simplification of the diff. Without the mod, the diff cost would have been many times more than the projected cost.
4. Cost not finalized but will include the tools needed to make the modification
5. The is be focusing on the Rerelease version
6. The diff itself is compatible with all cars that use the HS diff but it is unknown what would be needed on a car like the Bigwig
7. This will not be sold through a distributor
8. Presales are planned to start the week before xmas and units are scheduled for shipment in mid February 2018 (recall that the orv units shipped early)
Cars that this should fit in are here (note that rere axles are different and therefore the cars will need updated units to work):
58047: Hotshot
58054: Super Shot
58055: The Boomerang
58057: The Bigwig
58062: Hotshot II
58066: Super Sabre
58391: Hotshot
58418: The Boomerang
57330: The Bigwig
We are using a rere and an original HS for these builds. Should you have a concern or feel there is an error with any statements I have said, it is critical that you let me know.
Please remember that these parts are designed, engineered, manufactured and mailed form Southern California. These are not trash parts. MIP is the last RC Car manufacturer that makes products in the USA.
This is what I need from you all. If you want this to come to fruition, I need everyone to splatter this information all over the web. Every forum, every FB page and every Instagram post. Remember, if you speak a different language, translate this! This is how we got the ORV diff into production.
In order to build this, MIP will need 250 orders in their presales campaign. You will need to pay for the units as before and when we hit 250, you will get yours as soon as production starts and units are completed. If this is a success, MIP is looking at other parts for the ORV (like telescopic driveshafts) and machined arms for the Hotshots. The only reason MIP is moving forward with this is the fact that the Blackfoot Diff was a massive hit. If we fail here, say good bye to anything else from MIP.
Remember, 250 units and we get some ball diffs for the Hotshot Line!
Like before, this will not succeed without you all. I will i keep you updated as I get more info.
As of this post, pre-order pricing does not appear to be known yet, so I would recommend checking the TamiyaBase forum thread regularly for more information as it becomes available. I will try to check for updates and post them, but I could miss important, timely information due to the holidays.
Labels:
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re-release,
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tamiya
Sunday, December 25, 2016
MIP Super Ball Diff for Tamiya Blackfoot and Monster Beetle
Here it is! The MIP Super Ball Diff (#16210) for the Tamiya Blackfoot (58633) and Monster Beetle (58618). Here are the pictures of the final product as I received it yesterday.
I have not built one of these diffs to try yet, mostly because I do not have a Blackfoot or Monster Beetle to put it in. My plan is to use them in the Frog and Subaru Brat by switching the internal gears to Blackfoot ones and using the Frog universal joints as I mentioned in the compatibility section of a previous post.
Since the overall design is based on MIP's tried and true ball diff layout used in their other products, the strength and durability of these diffs is not in question. Over on TamiyaClub, initial testing results from one member indicate that it is indeed tough and has none of the problems found in the stock gear diff (clicking, grinding) even from a backward rolling start at full throttle. With the MIP ball diff there is no longer a need to have bracing on the outside of the gearbox side plates or a bolt going through the gearbox to try to stop the plates from bending outward under high acceleration.
These diffs are available now by going to this link: http://www.miponline.com/store/miptamiyainfo.html
MSRP is US $60+ shipping. Not exactly cheap (it's made in the USA), but certainly less than a vintage Thorp diff from eBay.
Note: I am not affiliated with MIP in any way. I'm just happy that they made this product.
48 tooth diff gear |
Two kinds of grease: clear silicone and MIP |
I have not built one of these diffs to try yet, mostly because I do not have a Blackfoot or Monster Beetle to put it in. My plan is to use them in the Frog and Subaru Brat by switching the internal gears to Blackfoot ones and using the Frog universal joints as I mentioned in the compatibility section of a previous post.
Since the overall design is based on MIP's tried and true ball diff layout used in their other products, the strength and durability of these diffs is not in question. Over on TamiyaClub, initial testing results from one member indicate that it is indeed tough and has none of the problems found in the stock gear diff (clicking, grinding) even from a backward rolling start at full throttle. With the MIP ball diff there is no longer a need to have bracing on the outside of the gearbox side plates or a bolt going through the gearbox to try to stop the plates from bending outward under high acceleration.
These diffs are available now by going to this link: http://www.miponline.com/store/miptamiyainfo.html
MSRP is US $60+ shipping. Not exactly cheap (it's made in the USA), but certainly less than a vintage Thorp diff from eBay.
Note: I am not affiliated with MIP in any way. I'm just happy that they made this product.
Thursday, December 1, 2016
Update: MIP Ball Diff for Tamiya ORV Chassis Pre-Order Campaign is a Success!
According to the latest email newsletter from MIP, the Tamiya ORV chassis ball differential pre-order campaign has met the minimum quantity needed for production to start!
Congratulations to all that pre-ordered to make this happen!
Production of the differentials will begin almost immediately according to Alberto (Pintopower on Tamiyclub) who contacted MIP directly and received a reply that manufacturing will start on Dec 2, 2016 at 8am. The first shipments of the new diffs are expected some time in January, 2017.
If you are reading this post before Dec 5, 2016, there is still time to pre-order now and save 10% off the $60 retail price. See details below.
While nothing specific has been said about retail production for these diffs, I think it is reasonable to assume that MIP will manufacturer a certain quantity of units that will reach the normal retail and distributor outlets and see how they sell.
If you missed out on the pre-order campaign and want to purchase one of these differentials, keep an eye out for them at your MIP dealer starting in early 2017. Also, be sure to ask for them so your dealer knows there is a demand. Part #16210 MIP Super Ball Diff.
When I first saw the MIP newsletter email, my eyes immediately focused on the chart showing only 82.4% sold with 4 days left before the end of the campaign (Dec 5, 2016). Some quick math told me that there were still 44 units left to reach the minimum pre-order quantity of 250. I was disappointed. There was no way 44 units would be sold in 4 days.
But, a sharp-eyed reader on TamiyaClub (thanks, Dangerseeker!) noticed that there was this sentence hiding in the text above the chart: "MIP goal has been reached, so production has now started." I totally overlooked that sentence, and so did others.
So, while the goal was to have 250 units pre-ordered, the actual minimum "go" quantity must have been 200 (just guessing here). (250 x 82.4% = 206)
Here is the email:
![](https://gallery.mailchimp.com/85cdb852b7a2a0f636574b1ce/images/miplogo_2012_headercard287ebd.jpg)
WEB ONLY
NEW DISCOUNTED PRE-PURCHASE CAMPAIGN
(click image to purchase)
MIP Super Ball Diff for the Tamiya Blackfoot, Monster Beetle,
MIP goal has been reached, so production has now started .
LAST WEEK TO SAVE 10%
Congratulations to all that pre-ordered to make this happen!
Production of the differentials will begin almost immediately according to Alberto (Pintopower on Tamiyclub) who contacted MIP directly and received a reply that manufacturing will start on Dec 2, 2016 at 8am. The first shipments of the new diffs are expected some time in January, 2017.
If you are reading this post before Dec 5, 2016, there is still time to pre-order now and save 10% off the $60 retail price. See details below.
While nothing specific has been said about retail production for these diffs, I think it is reasonable to assume that MIP will manufacturer a certain quantity of units that will reach the normal retail and distributor outlets and see how they sell.
If you missed out on the pre-order campaign and want to purchase one of these differentials, keep an eye out for them at your MIP dealer starting in early 2017. Also, be sure to ask for them so your dealer knows there is a demand. Part #16210 MIP Super Ball Diff.
When I first saw the MIP newsletter email, my eyes immediately focused on the chart showing only 82.4% sold with 4 days left before the end of the campaign (Dec 5, 2016). Some quick math told me that there were still 44 units left to reach the minimum pre-order quantity of 250. I was disappointed. There was no way 44 units would be sold in 4 days.
But, a sharp-eyed reader on TamiyaClub (thanks, Dangerseeker!) noticed that there was this sentence hiding in the text above the chart: "MIP goal has been reached, so production has now started." I totally overlooked that sentence, and so did others.
So, while the goal was to have 250 units pre-ordered, the actual minimum "go" quantity must have been 200 (just guessing here). (250 x 82.4% = 206)
Here is the email:
![](https://gallery.mailchimp.com/85cdb852b7a2a0f636574b1ce/images/miplogo_2012_headercard287ebd.jpg)
WEB ONLY
NEW DISCOUNTED PRE-PURCHASE CAMPAIGN
#16210 MIP Super Ball Diff,
(click image to purchase)
![](https://teal.secure-host.com/miponline/store/media/myparts/mip-part-tamiyagif2.gif)
MIP is honored to offer the Tamiya Vintage Community our
MIP Super Ball Diff for the Tamiya Blackfoot, Monster Beetle,
Subaru Brat, Lancia Rally and Frog series of cars.
MIP goal has been reached, so production has now started .
Buy now thru 12/5/16 and save $6![money-mouth](https://teal.secure-host.com/miponline/store/media/en-US/javascript/html_editor/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif)
This is your last week to save 10% off the MIP Super Diff ![money-mouth](https://teal.secure-host.com/miponline/store/media/en-US/javascript/html_editor/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif)
![](https://gallery.mailchimp.com/85cdb852b7a2a0f636574b1ce/images/fcd139b0-a9db-4f49-a725-3ba9e5f8a144.jpg)
Only 5 more days to SAVE 10% off
of MIP Super Ball Diff
Ends Monday 12/5/16 at midnight
![money-mouth](https://teal.secure-host.com/miponline/store/media/en-US/javascript/html_editor/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif)
![money-mouth](https://teal.secure-host.com/miponline/store/media/en-US/javascript/html_editor/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif)
(NO FREE SHIPPING THIS WEEK)
WITH CODE - "late10" FROM 11/29/16 TO 12/5/16
(click image to purchase)
Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with MIP or Tamiya or TamiyaUSA in any way. All logos are copyrighted and/or trademarked by their respective owners.
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